We flew back to Lima, and the driver we had arranged to pick us up was there to take us to our hotel.  How luxurious that felt!  Because we had arrived so early we had to wait a few hours.  With our luggage stored there we headed out for a bite and try to find a clinic.  While aloft Bill experienced a loss of hearing and accompanying pain.  It may have been related to his sinus issues that developed while in Cusco, possibly due to the altitude of close to 12,000  feet.  Then while flying the pressure change may have impacted his ears.  A wax buildup could have also been a factor.

The manager of La Baguette gave us directions to a clinic, Clinica de Esperanza, just a few minutes away by foot.  When we got there we couldn’t find it.  Outside a funeral parlor some kind people told us how to find it, only it was nowhere close by!  Along the way we had to ask another woman and eventually found it.  Seeing the number of people in the lobby turned Bill off so back to the hotel we went.  This time we took the hypotenuse which was so much faster!  Upon returning, waiting another hour, and getting into our room I did some research for an ENT.  I asked the receptionist to call for me, which she did, but the doctor wasn’t in that day!  We talked about clinics and ended up going back to the one we had just tried.  They took Bill’s passport until he was seen and paid the bill, and said the wait would be five minutes or so.  Over a half hour later we were called back.  After a quick intake a female doctor came and examined him.  Everything was fine except a wax build up in his ears.  In Peru only a specialist can clean them.  She called one next door who said he could see Bill.  A nurse took us over there after retrieving the passport.  While struggling with the language during the intake a very kind gentleman stopped and helped us with the translation.  Turns out he studied business at Harvard!  He even got us a discount on the consult and explained we didn’t have to pay the emergency clinic.  Wow, unlike the U.S.!  Another man was called in to take us to the doctor and translate.  The ears were cleaned and checked for other problems.  Everything else was fine.  He wrote a prescription for a prednisone type medication for three days.  The translator then took us to the in-house pharmacy where Bill paid about $11.  Another good thing was all along Bill was given preference for being 66.  Getting old has some advantages!

Bill still couldn’t hear but by morning his hearing was restored.  Feeling better we decided to take a taxi to see some pyramids right in Lima. Sadly, many have been destroyed or damaged until just recently.  From limaeasy.com:

The area of today’s Lima City and Province has been already inhabited for many thousands of years. That’s the reason why you will find hundreds of ancient settlements hidden somewhere in Lima and the surroundings. But only around 250 archaeological sites and huacas in the capital are registered with the National Institute of Culture (INC). These ancient historical sites and buildings are spread over the traditional and modern districts of Lima. Explorers and archaeologists rediscovered a few hundreds years back many of these historical monuments, but their findings were until a few years back generally speaking ignored. Unfortunately until today only a few huacas are cared for, preserved, restored or investigated in an appropriate manner. Most of the valuable reminders of Limas rich archaeological and historical past seem to be forgotten. They are neglected, left to deteriorate and exposed to Limas urban expansion. You can find for example residences, small plantations, rubbish, a soccer field or even a garage in an archaeological complex or on top of an ancient temple. So it is not surprising to even see mayor roads literally cutting through a historical complex.

 They are not actually of that geometric shape as they have a flat top, a platform.  We took a taxi to the first one where we visited the small museum before walking up the ramp.  We were appreciative of the restoration but wished we could have seen the original.


From limaeasy.com:
The history of the “Huaca Huallamarca” goes back to the early Christian era when the “Hualla” from the Lima Culture occupied the complex. Its original purpose was to serve as a place for worshipping for the tribes of the Lima Culture. During the time of the regional development the big pyramid was built. It was constructed completely with adobe bricks, shaped by hand and assembled to platforms (one over the other) to create enclosures, patios, passageways and private areas. Everything was painted in a yellowish color. Side ramps were built to reach the different levels. Access to the ceremonial centre was probably only allowed to a religious elite. During the early stages, the first burials were quite simple. The bodies were placed in an extended position, wrapped in cotton cloths and tied to a reed stretcher. The offerings placed around the head consisted of ceramic pots and food for the afterlife.
As time passed by, new urban and cultural centers arose in the valley and the “Huallamarca” was abandoned as a temple. The population only used the ceremonial complex as a burial ground. In this second phase burials became more elaborate. Funerary bundles with “false heads” were made. The bodies were wrapped in woven cloth and buried with textiles, decorated ceramic pots, gourds, tools, musical instruments, food and other valuable objects.

 During “Huallamarca’s” last inhabited period it was used by the Incas as a human settlement. The citizens built terraces on the east side of the pyramid and added dwellings, patios, storage and cooking areas. Typical for this time period are the large in-built deposits and huge terra-cotta vessels used for the storage of grain and liquids. Archaeologists found measuring and weighting devices as well as goods for barter trade (swapping).
 From there we chose to walk to the next huaca of interest.  This took us through the financial district of San Isidro and a beautiful park!  We decided the rich live here and shop in Miraflores.  We saw a flock of birds in the koi pond chasing after one of their kind who had caught a tasty treat and was trying to swallow it.  There were drinking pools for dogs which sadly were dry.
When we arrived at Huaca Pucllana and were required to join a tour.  This pyramid is a must-see in Lima.  It is believed to have been the center of the Lima culture and was a ceremonial and administrative center.
 Again, from limaeasy.com:
 The day to day labor involved fishing, working on the plantations, gathering and hunting, manufacturing of handicrafts, textiles, basketry and tools for agriculture and fishing. Cooperative operations were carried out to construct and maintain irrigation channels. The simple burial sites and missing weapons among the burial objects seem to indicated, that the population lived a very basic and peaceful live. Their textiles were simple as well, made of wool from alpaca or vicuña. Artistic pottery included ceremonial jars decorated with snakes and fish in black, red and white.

With the arrival of the “Wari” who overthrow all other cultures at the coast of Peru around 700 AD, “Pucllana” lost its importance and was abandoned. During the Wari period the pyramid was used as burial place for their notabilities. Later those graves were destroyed by the “Ichma” (local residents who worshipped Pachacámac) that tried to impose their own culture. After some time the “Huaca Pucllana” was only used for performing sacrifices and worshipping. By the time the Incas arrived in the region “Pucllana” already was considered a “ñaupallaqta” (an old sacred village).

The day in video.

Then it was back to the hotel to rest and begin the packing process for the flight back home the next day.